Mallee

I've entered the Mallee, the northernmost region of Victoria, and the last before I cross the border into New South Wales.

After the last update, I spent the rest of the day in Edenhope. I found a nice shelter for oboe playing and also rode the short trail around Lake Wallace. The weather was perfect, but I saw only that one sailboat on the lake.

That evening, a couple professional hunters showed up to try to cull the enormous flocks of birds. I don't know how many they got, but it couldn't possibly have been enough to make even the slightest dent in their numbers.

Edenhope Oboe Spot

Lake Wallace Stats

Sailboat on Lake Wallace

After leaving Edenhope, I made a very brief visit to South Australia and the town of Frances. The store there was still open but, naturally, it was for sale. They still had their famous hamburgers, though. There was free camping at the sport grounds, where I expected to have the whole place to myself. Apparently, though, Thursday evening is when everyone shows up. First some boys to practice rugby, then some young girls for tennis, then women to play netball, and finally the men to play rugby. In any case, I found a good tent spot well out of the way. And I was able to get into the showers. Judging from the nice vehicles, folks around there appear to be fairly well off.  I'm told farming in the area is quite profitable.

Border Crossing

Frances, South Australia

I returned to Victoria the next day, to the small town of Goroke. Along the way, I came to a little store in Minimay, the sort of place where one expects nothing at all. Right at lunchtime, too! There's a nice campground in Goroke, fortunately right next to the tennis courts with a great shelter. That was useful, because some terrific winds came up from the north, just the direction I was heading, so I took a day off to wait it out.

Goroke still has a grocery store and another small shop, but the pub is closed.  

Another Border Crossing

Minimay Store

Goroke Oboe Spot

Goroke Bunker

When the wind finally shifted, I rode north, through Little Desert National Park. In contrast the the surrounding farm land, in the park there is native vegetation, which this time of year looks pretty lush compared to the dry cropland. I camped just north of the park at the Little Desert Nature Lodge. It is run by some sort of foundation, supporting research and education about ecology and wildlife. As soon as I arrived, I met George, the resident emu. He's apparently good at making off with your food, though fortunately he hasn't learned how to open the fridge yet. A big area has been fenced off to exclude exotic predators. There was still a powerful wind blowing, but there was a big, empty shelter building, where I set up my tent. In the afternoon, I took a walk around the area.

A young couple from Melbourne was staying in a room there, working as volunteers. Both were college students in ecology related fields. After dinner, they invited me to go along to feed the bettongs, which they are raising in an enclosure. Bettongs are sort of like miniature kangaroos, about the size of a house cat. They hop around on their hind legs, just like kangaroos. These were very tame.

Native Vegetation at Little Desert NP

More Native Vegetation

George, the Resident Emu

Little Desert Lodge Campsite

Bettong

Jeparit was the next stop, a short ride with a nice tailwind for a change. For the first time, the flies became bothersome, so I had to resort to DEET. The town itself is in pretty sad shape.  

The next stop was Rainbow, on another great tailwind. Rainbow is positively thriving, compared to Jeparit. Both pubs are actually in business. The cafe, naturally, has just changed hands, but at least it's open. I had lunch there, and later found that the woman who runs the place also manages the caravan park where I stayed. I went back to the cafe in the morning in search of breakfast, but, alas, the hotplate was broken.

Rainbow

The price of those tailwind days came due on the way to Hopetoun yesterday. It wasn't very far, but into a stiff wind the whole way. The trees along the road didn't even help much, as the wind was often blowing right straight down the road. Along the way the rear tire picked up a thorn, the first puncture of the trip, but at least there was a shady spot for the repair.

The Straight Road to Hopetoun

There's a "Retreat" by the lake in Hopetoun with free camping. Right next to it is a park with well-watered grass, where I camped last trip. It's not really clear where the boundary is, so I just set my tent up at dusk, and took it down early in the morning. I'm hoping to get away with that again tonight.

Hopetoun Campsite at Sunrise

Hopetoun has the usual business I need, so it's a good place to take a break before I head for the NSW border.